It is the waiting that impressed me most.
The pacific surf is a never ending undulating incoming roll of water
hills and valleys
rises and frothy endings.
To surf these waves
black dots of body suited surfers
They sit on their boards, they bob up and down, they languidly paddle arm over arm
never getting anywhere, seemingly.
Testing and discerning the elements for the right wave that will carry them in an adrenaline washed moment of balance and dare.
In a 30 minute span of time, with a dozen surfers in the water
only 3 stood and rode the wave.
It must have been a slow day.
Which was just fine with them.
Waitingly yours, from San Pedro California
*photos taken from an outlook along the cliffs, overlooking the LA Port Authority, an expanse of water and barriers which allow mammoth tankers, cheeky sailboats, tall ships, and waiting surfers to play together